By Adrian Adams
India is one of the top exporters of jewelry. Jewels of extreme beauty are crafted by gold and silversmiths of the country with unique skill and care. Indian tribal jewelry is significantly appreciated for it's tact in using flowers, leaves, creepers and fruits, metal and wood to design exquisite fashionable wear.
Jewelry is made for most every part of the body in India. Jewelry is also not something that is limited to humans in this culture. It's often found on horses and elephants which represent a ceremonial tone in expression of the gods. In this regard jewelry and religion are elegantly intertwined. An example of this union is the prayer bead or the rudraksh (berry of the elaocarpus canitrus) necklace. Often jewelry is worn in nomadic and migrant tribal communities as a representation of security and investment.
Even specific areas of India have styles of craft which is significant to them. In Orissa and Andhra Pradesh silver is particularly highlighted. Jaipur is the art most known for enameling or Meenakari. Temple jewelry is most expected from Nagercoil and Kundan or the expressive setting of precious stones in gold from Delhi. Silver beads are found in a wide variety of India. Patterns of leaves, flowers, butterflies, birds, and many geometrical shapes are crafted with silver wires in varied thickness.
Thinner wires are collected within the framework to create a fragile appearance like that of lace. Chokers and necklaces are prominent jewelry in the area of Mughals. Twenty four carat gold is mainly significant in Assam and used for earrings and necklaces of flora and fauna type. Human heads are imitated with long funnel shaped beads used in combination with shells, animal claws, and teeth in Nagaland.
Tamil Nadu and Kerala are expressive of nature. Rice grains, cobra's hoods, melon and cucumber seeds are popular motifs of the area. In Pradesh long earrings and noserings with papal leafs or bird motifs are the area of expertise. In Ladakh you are likely to find silver charm boxes and headdresses with lanes of turquoise, coral, and agate hand stitched onto it.
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